Exploring Angkor Temples

Continuing the series of posts and photos from my trip to Cambodia.

I’m not a fan of beach holidays, so don’t expect any Sihanoukville from me. Today we’re heading to Siem Reap. Exploring the temples of Angkor is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Ancient temples meet the jungle here, creating a lost-world atmosphere. You can see the stone faces of Bayon, the mysterious ruins of Ta Prohm, and the grandeur of Angkor Wat.

If you love Lara Croft–style adventures and really ancient relics, Angkor is the perfect place. I’ll share everything you need to know before the trip – from reaching Siem Reap and choosing where to stay, to detailed tips on the Small and Large Circuits, including Angkor Wat, Bayon, Ta Prohm, and more forgotten jungle ruins. And show all the main spots!

Храмы Ангкора

How to Get to Siem Reap

To see the famous Khmer temples, you need to get to Siem Reap — the nearest city and, I’d say, the gateway to Angkor.

By plane

The new airport, opened in October 2023, serves flights from many Southeast Asian countries: Thailand (Bangkok, Phuket), Vietnam (Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Da Nang), Singapore, China, Laos, and so on. There are also flights from Cambodia’s capital — Phnom Penh.

Airlines flying here include AirAsia, Asiana Airlines, Bangkok Airways, Cambodia Angkor Air, China Eastern, Lao Airlines, Mahogany Air, Singapore Airlines, Thai AirAsia, Thai Airways, VietJet Air, and Vietnam Airlines.

The airport is about an hour’s drive from the center of Siem Reap.

Getting from the airport

Airport – Siem Reap shuttle bus: departures at 09:30, 10:30, 12:30, 15:00, 16:00, 18:00, 20:00, 22:00. Ticket $8, available online.
Shared minivan transfer (to your hotel) — $9 per person.
Private transfer — price depends on the number of passengers, around $30. You can check the rates and book here.

By bus

If you’re coming from Thailand or Vietnam, you’ll probably choose the bus — even though it’s quite a long trip. From Bangkok, it takes about eight hours. Still, consider flying, especially since AirAsia tickets can actually be cheaper.

If you’re set on taking the bus, I recommend the carrier Giant Ibis — Asian luxury. I took them from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap: very comfortable seats and onboard service with a flight attendant. Feels like business class on a plane. You can find bus tickets across Southeast Asia here.

храмы Ангкора

Where to Stay in Siem Reap

Siem Reap is really just a place to spend the night, take a daytime nap (I’m not an old man, but I’ll try to convince you why that’s necessary), and have dinner. So it’s best to stay in a nice hotel not far from Pub Street (link to Google Maps) — the city’s main nightlife spot.

The location of your hotel in relation to the Angkor temples doesn’t matter at all, because you won’t be walking there anyway.

We spent three nights at Koulen Hotel — quiet street, rooftop pool, 500 meters from Pub Street.
For something cheaper, I can recommend Central Blanche Residence — peaceful area, about a 15-minute walk to the center.
Friends of mine stayed at Dontrei Villa Angkor, and we visited them in the evening. The “villa with a private pool” room — that’s when your heart just stops. But expensive. I’d even say very expensive.

храмы Ангкора

When to Go

In Siem Reap, as in other parts of the country, it’s hot and humid all year round. The average daily temperature stays around +35°C. There are three main seasons:

Hot dry season (March – May) — constant heat. Feels like you’re spending 24 hours a day inside a Finnish sauna.
Rainy season (June – October) — high humidity, frequent but short downpours. It usually rains at night or before dawn. Two or three hours of solid water walls. And that’s at +35°C. Imagine turning on a hot shower inside a steam room. In September, it can be cloudy almost every day, with no sun in sight.
Cool dry season (November – February) — the best time to visit. Temperatures around +30°C, humidity a bit lower, and no rain.

But even in this so-called cool dry season, if you stay outside from noon to 4 p.m., you’ll sweat not seven times, but thirty-three.

Clothing

Let’s not forget that everything we’re planning to visit are temples. So your clothing should be appropriate. For men, shorts can be just above the knee; for women, they should cover the knees. Everyone’s shoulders must be covered.

Shorts should look like shorts, not underwear. A T-shirt should be a T-shirt, not a tank top. Yes, it’s hot, but tank tops belong in the gym. If you’re dressed inappropriately, you won’t be allowed into some temples.

Where to Eat and Drink

Pub Street is the most popular tourist street in Siem Reap for evening leisure. Bars, restaurants, souvenir shops, massage parlors without the shady stuff (I’m not entirely sure), nightclubs — everything you need to relax after a full day of temple touring.

The food ranges from regular to exotically touristy. Crocodile meat burgers, fresh frogs. Oh, and the famous happy pizza, which you’ve probably heard of even before coming to Siem Reap — that’s when they add cannabis leaves or oil to your pizza. Hopefully everyone understands that it’s all aimed at tourists.

If you prefer a calmer atmosphere, there’s a great Khmer restaurant across the river — Tevy’s Place. Affordable and delicious. On the same street, you’ll find a few laid-back bars. I’d recommend Miss Wong — they make the best cocktails in Siem Reap.

Where to Buy Angkor Tickets

One ticket covers entry to all the temples of Angkor — the only difference is the number of days (visits are unlimited): 1 day — $37, 3 days — $62, 7 days — $72. The 7-day ticket is for archaeologists only. You should buy the 3-day pass. All decent people go to see the temples of Angkor for three days.

Children under 12 enter for free with a passport.

You can buy tickets on-site, but it’s better not to waste time and purchase them online in advance. The official website is https://ticket.angkorenterprise.gov.kh. You’ll need a photo — anything works, whether it’s in front of your fridge or your wallpaper.

A dedicated person will scan your ticket at the entrance to most temples — they check not only the number of days but also the photo. So taking turns with one ticket won’t work. You don’t need to print it; showing it on your phone is fine.

~~The boss of all nose-pickers.~~ The chief ticket inspector.

How to Get Around

The temples of Angkor are spread out over a vast area — it’s impossible to explore them on foot. Unless, of course, you buy a seven-day ticket and sleep under the bushes.

There are four options:

Tuk-tuk

This is the best option! A tuk-tuk is a motorcycle with a small carriage attached. I have plenty of photos of them in my Phnom Penh post. Just walk up to any tuk-tuk driver you like in Siem Reap and negotiate, or ask at your hotel reception — they always know someone. Or book online. All tuk-tuk drivers know exactly where to go and where to stop. They all follow one of two standard routes — the Small or the Grand Circuit (I’ll explain those later). Prices depend on the season and your bargaining skills. Expect to pay around $15–20 for the Small Circuit (half-day) or $20–25 for the Grand Circuit (full day). If you want to catch the sunrise or sunset, it’ll cost a bit more. Add about $10 if you want a guide. And just a reminder — this is Asia: no prepayments, you pay at the end of the trip.

Car

Same idea as the tuk-tuk, except between temples you can chill in the air-conditioning. You can arrange it through your hotel or any travel agency in Siem Reap. Small Circuit $35–50, Grand Circuit $50–70.

Bicycle

There are plenty of rental shops in town. A day’s rental costs around $5–8. But honestly, it’s mostly downsides. It takes about 45 minutes of pedaling just to reach the start of the temple loop from Siem Reap, and then you have to ride all the way back. Inside Angkor there isn’t much traffic, but getting there means facing typical Asian roads. If you plan to see the sunrise, you’ll be cycling in the dark. I’m not a fan of riding 20 km in the heat — and you’ll also need to “park” your bike somewhere near the temples.

Scooter

Better than a bicycle. Costs around $12 a day. You’ll need a copy of your passport — never leave the original. You can check bikesbooking.com, though you’ll likely find a cheaper deal locally.

I used tuk-tuks for both the Small and Grand Circuits, and for the distant temples we hired a car with a driver.

Tours

Check out GYG — they have everything: tuk-tuks, buses, small groups, large groups.

Small Circuit vs. Grand Circuit

If you’ve already started reading hundreds of blogs and writing down the names of temples you must visit — burn that list immediately. All those Preah Pithu, Srah Srah, Tep Pram, and other temples, each described as “unique for its bas-reliefs and mysterious architectural features,” will turn out to be just another pile of stones once you’re there. Especially by the third day.

You should focus on the most famous and impressive temples. “Impressive” also means those being swallowed by the jungle, not just the big ones. A month after your trip, you won’t even remember the rest. Concentrate on the highlights.

The Small Circuit includes the most iconic, photogenic, and historically significant temples: Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Bayon, Baphuon, Ta Prohm, and about a dozen smaller ones. The route is around 20 km long. If you don’t have many days in Cambodia, don’t even hesitate — the Small Circuit is what you need.
The Grand Circuit is for those spending three days in Siem Reap. On the third day, you can visit the less popular temples. And if you feel like revisiting the highlights of the Small Circuit — Angkor Wat or Bayon — you can always stop there again. But most likely, by day three, you’ll already have had more than enough temple impressions.

Your Perfect 1-2-3 Day Plan in Siem Reap

Three days

Day 1: Small Circuit in the morning, rest, and in the afternoon — floating villages on Tonle Sap. Start early. Honestly, under the scorching sun and in the humid climate, you won’t need any more temples after midday. If you start at 6–7 a.m., you’ll see everything in about seven hours, explore everywhere, and be back at your hotel. Shower, sex, lunch, pool. That’s what normal people do.

Day 2: Distant temples.

Day 3: Grand Circuit.

Two days

Small Circuit + floating villages. It’s better to go through the Grand Circuit. I wouldn’t go to the distant temples — just getting there and back takes about three hours.

One day

Small Circuit temples + floating villages.

FAQ

Angkor, Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom — what’s the difference?
Angkor is the archaeological park covering many temples. Angkor Wat is the most famous temple in the park, often associated with Angkor itself. Angkor Thom is the walled city and the last stronghold of the Khmer Empire, located near Angkor Wat.

Where to eat inside Angkor?
There are small cafés, and tuk-tuk drivers know where to take you. You can spot them along the roads.

Toilets?
Not ancient, but there are public ones available. No need to run into the trees.

Drinking water?
Definitely bring your own. But a good tuk-tuk driver or car driver usually has a bonus — a thermal bag with free cold water. Check this when you arrange your ride.

What else to bring?
Sunscreen, a hat, wet wipes, anti-diarrhea pills (the more, the safer).

Where to Watch the Sunrise and Sunset

The sunrise is traditionally watched at Angkor Wat — the most popular spot. The morning light illuminates the temple, reflecting in the pond in front of it. It’s an iconic place for sunrise photos around here. Thousands of tourists standing next to you at sunrise can’t be wrong.

For sunset, head to Phnom Bakheng. Not the most impressive temple, but it’s open at sunset. From the top, you can see the jungle and Angkor Wat in the distance.

Small Circuit Temples

Here’s a map of the Small Circuit temple route. Your tuk-tuk driver will know exactly where to go and what to show, but you can use it to double-check. The map is especially useful if you’re on a scooter or, heaven forbid, a bicycle. It also shows spots where you can park.

Small Circuit Temples: What to See

Angkor Wat, the South Gate of Angkor Thom, Angkor Thom — Bayon, Baphuon, the Elephant Terrace, the Terrace of the Leper King, and a few temples with unpronounceable names. Then you exit through the East Gate to a group of temples — Ta Keo, Ta Prohm, followed by stops at Banteay Kdei, Srah Srang, and Prasat Kravan.

The most important temples on the route: Angkor Wat, Bayon, Ta Prohm (this is where Lara Croft was filmed).

Next, a brief overview of all these temples.

Angkor Wat

One of the largest and most famous temples in the world, built in the 12th century. Originally dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu, it later became a Buddhist temple. Angkor Wat is known for its symmetry, scale, and incredibly detailed bas-reliefs depicting mythological and historical scenes. It is the centerpiece of Angkor and a symbol of Cambodia, even featured on the national flag.

Angkor Wat faces west, which is unusual for Hindu temples, as they are typically oriented east. The westward direction is thought to be associated with sunset and death, hinting at the temple’s possible use as a tomb for King Suryavarman II.

Around 3,000 apsaras — celestial dancers symbolizing joy and spiritual well-being — are carved into the temple walls. Each apsara is depicted with unique facial features, poses, and adornments.

The complex consists of three levels, representing the three worlds: the world of humans, the world of gods, and the summit of Mount Meru — the mythical abode of the gods. The central tower, which once held a statue of Vishnu, embodies this mountain. Architectural elements illustrate myths of the creation and destruction of the universe.

The main path to the temple represents a symbolic journey to the center of the world. The avenue leading to the temple is decorated with balustrades in the form of nagas — multi-headed serpents symbolizing protection and the connection between earth and sky. Walking along this avenue is a transition into sacred space.

The temple is surrounded by extensive galleries and corridors, with walls depicting scenes from sacred texts and epics. Among the most famous bas-reliefs is the Churning of the Ocean of Milk — an epic scene from Hindu mythology where gods and demons churn the ocean to obtain the elixir of immortality.

Angkor Wat was built from sandstone quarried at the sacred Phnom Kulen mountain, more than 50 km from the temple. The stone blocks were transported by river on rafts. This massive labor operation involved around 300,000 workers and 6,000 elephants, yet the temple was never fully completed.

Angkor Thom

A walled city with five massive gates, surrounded by walls and a moat. It was built in the 12th century and served as the capital of the Khmer Empire.

Within Angkor Thom lies one of the most impressive temples — Bayon.

Bayon

The heart of the ancient city of Angkor Thom, built at the end of the 12th century by King Jayavarman VII. Bayon’s main feature is its 54 towers, each crowned with giant faces that seem to watch over everything around them. There are 216 faces in total, each with a gentle smile and half-closed eyes.

It remains a mystery why there are exactly this many towers and whose faces they are. Scholars have suggested they might represent different gods, aspects of the king himself, or the embodiment of the Khmer people.

Bayon was not only a temple but also a place for rituals meant to strengthen the king’s power. It is believed that the towers with faces were positioned so that the king could “observe” the four corners of the world.

Baphuon

A multi-level temple dedicated to Shiva, later converted into a Buddhist temple.

Terrace of the Leper King

The terrace is decorated with bas-reliefs of mythical creatures symbolizing the underworld. Its name comes from a statue at the top depicting a seated figure, believed to represent Yama, the Hindu god of death and the underworld. Over time, erosion of the sculpture led people to think it portrayed a leper. Exactly who it represents is unknown — some say a Khmer figure, others an Indian one — but either way, both “recovered.”

Elephant Terrace

A massive platform about 300 meters long, decorated with carved elephants, used for royal ceremonies and parades.

Ta Prohm

Known as “the temple claimed by nature.” Built in the 12th century by King Jayavarman VII in honor of his mother, it served as a Buddhist monastery and university. Around 12,000 people once lived here, including monks, scholars, and staff.

Ta Prohm is fascinating because it has been left largely as it was found — ruined yet majestic, with branches and vines woven into the walls. This unique fusion of architecture and nature is exactly what made Ta Prohm famous after the filming of Lara Croft: Tomb Raider.

According to legend, the temple was considered a repository for sacred relics. The king ordered its construction in honor of the goddess of wisdom, seeing her as a symbol of his mother. The temple embodies the idea of the inseparable bond between humans and nature — just as ancient buildings are consumed by roots, civilizations rise and fall, making way for the new.

Ta Keo

One of the earliest temples of Angkor, known as the “unfinished temple.” Built in the early 10th century, it was dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva and designed as a grand five-tiered pyramid, symbolizing the sacred Mount Meru. Ta Keo’s main feature is its simple, almost unworked sandstone surface, as the temple was never completed — likely due to the sudden death of the king or a lightning strike, seen as a bad omen.

Banteay Kdei, Prasat Kravan

Small temples, nothing particularly remarkable. Most guides describe them with phrases like: “the temple stands out for its unique bas-reliefs and mysterious architectural features.”

Srah Srang

An ancient man-made reservoir located opposite Banteay Kdei. In the center of Srah Srang, there used to be an island with a pavilion for royal ceremonies and meditation.

Prasat Kravan

A small temple complex featuring five towers arranged in a single row. Despite its modest size, Prasat Kravan draws attention with its beautiful bas-reliefs depicting scenes with Vishnu and Lakshmi.

Grand Circuit Temples

Here’s a map of the Grand Circuit temple route.

Grand Circuit Temples: What to See

Pre Rup, East Mebon, Ta Som, North Baray, Neak Pean, Prasat Prei, Banteay Prei, Preah Khan.

Next, a brief overview of all these temples.

Pre Rup — a 10th-century temple complex built from brick and sandstone, believed to have been a ritual cremation site. Especially beautiful at sunset, when its brick towers are bathed in warm light.

East Mebon — an “island” temple located on the site of the dried-up East Baray, once surrounded by water. The temple is famous for elephant statues at each corner, guarding the sanctuary.

Ta Som — a small temple known for its frescoes and a doorway entwined with the roots of an ancient tree. Fewer tourists visit here, making it ideal for a quiet stroll.

North Baray — a huge man-made reservoir that once supplied water to ancient Angkor. Today it is better known as part of the landscape symbolizing Angkor’s water system.

Neak Pean — a temple on a small island in an artificial lake, representing a symbolic “ocean” with four ponds symbolizing purification.

Prasat Prei — a small, lesser-visited temple with beautiful carved decorations reflecting classic Khmer style.

Banteay Prei — a compact brick temple notable for its simple yet refined architecture and relatively well-preserved carvings.

Preah Khan — one of the largest temples in Angkor, built by Jayavarman VII as a monastery and university. The temple is known for its long corridors and galleries, partially entwined with tree roots.

Distant Temples

Start with the Roluos Group, then head to Beng Mealea and Banteay Srei. The cost of visiting is included in the single Angkor temple ticket — no extra payment is required. If you have nothing else to do, you can also make a trip to Koh Ker.

Roluos Group

The Roluos Group is named after the village of Roluos in the area where these temples are located. It is one of the oldest temple complexes near Angkor, with structures dating back to the 9th century, when this area was the capital of the Khmer Empire — the city of Hariharalaya.

The complex includes several main temples:

Bakong — the largest and central temple of the group, built as a pyramid symbolizing the sacred Mount Meru. Bakong is considered the first Khmer temple constructed from stone.
Preah Ko — one of the oldest temples, dedicated to the ancestors of King Indravarman I. This temple stands out for its architecture and brick carvings, as well as the bull (Nandi) sculptures at the entrance.
Lolei — a temple located on the site of an ancient reservoir representing the cosmic ocean, dedicated to the king’s parents and grandfather. Lolei is famous for its colorful bas-reliefs and Shiva-dedicated lingams.

Banteay Srei

Banteay Srei — a small temple located 25 km northeast of Angkor. Built in the 10th century and dedicated to Shiva, its name translates as “Citadel of Women.” It is famous for its red sandstone carvings. For anyone who didn’t get enough of the carved mythological scenes and celestial dancers (apsaras) in previous temples, Banteay Srei offers one last chance to admire them.

Beng Mealea

Beng Mealea — a temple 40 km east of Angkor, built in the 12th century and likely served as a prototype for Angkor Wat. Almost entirely overgrown by jungle, it creates an atmosphere of a lost world. The temple is believed to have been abandoned in the 16th century and remained under nature’s control until French researchers rediscovered it in the 19th century. Like Ta Prohm, you can see ruined galleries and majestic trees whose roots wrap around old walls and columns.

The temple is stunning. If you’re lucky, there may be no other tourists. It truly feels like traveling to another world. Even more massive than Ta Prohm, you can spend hours watching the jungle consume human creations.

A trip to Beng Mealea can be combined with a visit to the floating village of Kompong Khleang.

Koh Ker

Koh Ker is an archaeological temple complex located 120 km northeast of Angkor. It is an ancient city that briefly served as the capital of the Khmer Empire in the 10th century under King Jayavarman IV. Unlike Angkor, which later became the empire’s main center, Koh Ker remained relatively remote and rarely visited, preserving its pristine atmosphere.

Main temples in Koh Ker:

Prasat Thom — the main temple and the largest pyramid in the complex, standing 36 meters tall, resembling a stepped pyramid. It symbolized Mount Meru.
Prasat Pram — a temple known for its figures and bas-reliefs depicting mythical creatures and scenes from Hindu epics. The temple is partially overgrown with the roots of massive trees, giving it an abandoned and ancient feel.
Prasat Lingas — a temple with numerous lingams (sacred symbols of Shiva), serving as a ritual center for worshiping the god Shiva.
Prasat Kra Chap — a small temple complex with beautifully preserved carvings and sculptures showcasing traditional Hindu motifs.
Prasat Bak — an ancient sanctuary decorated with carved panels, many depicting scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata.