Barcelona’s Oldest Bars: Where Hemingway & Picasso Drank Absinthe
Hola, chicos!
In the very heart of the Raval district, among narrow streets and historic buildings, hide two bars that seem frozen in time.
I’ll tell you about the oldest bars in Barcelona, where the mirrors from the 19th century still haven’t been polished. Or where to go in the evening in Barcelona if you want a taste of history.
Bar Marsella: drink like Hemingway
Bar Marsella (Google Maps link). Opened in 1820, it has preserved its authentic atmosphere and unique charm for more than two centuries.
A legendary meeting place for the creative elite
Inside, almost nothing has changed since its regulars: Hemingway, Picasso, Gaudí, Dalí. Peeling paint on the ceiling, dusty bottles, mirrors covered with patina.
Not some kind of gimmick — genuine vintage and authentic style. Don’t get it twisted.
Absinthe, the French way
No food. No trendy cocktails either. Just beer and absinthe, prepared in the classic French ritual: a sugar cube is placed on a spoon over the glass, cold water is poured over it, and sweet drop by drop dilutes the green drink.
I personally prefer the Czech version — where the sugar is soaked in absinthe and set on fire. But back then, the Raval district was strongly influenced by the French bohemian scene, and at Marsella they still follow their canon today.
Truth is, modern absinthe isn’t the same — it’s no longer made using the traditional method, and the thujone content (that hallucinogen) has been reduced to a minimum. But the strength, 50–70 degrees, remains. So it will hit you. Just don’t expect to see the Green Fairy like Verlaine or Hemingway did.
Saved from closure
In 2013, Bar Marsella faced the threat of closing due to a change in the building’s owners. However, thanks to the efforts of local residents and fans of the place, the city authorities bought the building to preserve this cultural landmark for future generations.
Also, Woody Allen filmed Vicky Cristina Barcelona here.
Worth a visit? Absolutely. I love places like this. Get one absinthe for two — the taste is an acquired one. A bottle of beer each, and you’re ready to continue exploring Barcelona.
London Bar — bohemian Barcelona of the early 20th century
If you want to soak up even more of the Barcelona atmosphere from the days of Picasso and Hemingway, head to the nearby London Bar (Google Maps link). Actually, I’ve confused everyone a bit. If you’re staying near La Rambla, it’s better to start here first, then go to Marsella. Just a three-minute walk between them.
London Bar opened in 1910 and has hardly changed since. The interior is a bit nicer than Bar Marsella, but still feels like a museum without restoration. The place is no less iconic: Dalí, Miró, Picasso, artists, and just the city’s eccentrics used to drop by.
As I’ve mentioned, in the early 20th century the Raval district was the bohemian center — theaters, cabarets, flamenco tablaos. London Bar found itself right in the thick of it.
Why is one of the oldest bars named after a French city — Marseille — and the other — London? I agree, it looks a bit exotic for early 20th-century Barcelona. But there’s no definitive record explaining the names. At the beginning of the 20th century, Barcelona was rapidly Europeanizing. London Bar sounded European, and therefore — modern.
In 2017, the bar was handed over to Carlos Raluy, a circus performer from the famous family that founded Circo Raluy.
What to drink
There are a few signature cocktails with unusual presentations — for example, in a light bulb, or in an original glass. Without choosing, I just pointed randomly. They brought a “Frida Kahlo.” It was awful — lots of milky coffee liqueur with something else and a single ice cube. I should have gone for beer, of course.
Worth a visit? Yes, briefly, just to mark “I was here.”
