50 Best Things to Do in Istanbul

For a long time, I had all kinds of prejudices about Turkey, imagining it as some kind of tacky seaside resort, full of tourists on every corner, checkered market bags, and all sorts of clichés..

Everything changed when I saw a photo of Cappadocia. A week later, I was sitting on a hotel terrace, watching the sunrise with those huge, colorful balloons floating over the valley. And then Istanbul happened to me. It was love at first sight — and forever.

I love Istanbul for everything it has — its incredibly rich history and culture, its streets and ferries, the tea that exists only there, the chaos of a city with millions of people, the muezzin’s songs in the mornings, the crazy mix of smells from the Bosphorus and street food, even that very balik ekmek by the Galata Bridge that makes all the snobs wrinkle their noses.

I’ve put together a big list of the 50 main things you have to do in Istanbul.

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To make it a bit easier to navigate Istanbul, I’ve grouped all the main spots and the todo list by neighborhoods.

Istanbul

I’m almost embarrassed by this scheme, but it’s very visual.

Two common misconceptions:

Galata Bridge connects Europe and Asia.

No, this is all the European side, divided by the Golden Horn. The Bosphorus Bridge connects the European and Asian sides. The Üsküdar district is already in Asia.

Sultanahmet is a district of Istanbul.

There’s the Fatih district, which includes 57 quarters, among them Sultanahmet, Eminönü, Fener, and Balat.

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Fatih District

The highest concentration of sights per square meter. Here’s what you must not miss:

Topkapi Palace – the largest and most accessible sultan’s palace. The harem is there too. Allow 2.5 hours for the visit.

Istanbul Museums: how not to go broke on admissions. Read this before planning, as the Turks recently raised ticket prices significantly. I even had to write a separate post about it.

Church of Saint Irene (Aya Irini) – the oldest building from Constantinople times. Right next to Topkapi.
Hagia Sophia – the symbol of Byzantium’s Golden Age. Formerly the patriarchal Orthodox cathedral, converted into a mosque by the Ottomans in the 15th century, a museum from 1935, and since 2020 again a mosque. Officially today it’s the Grand Mosque of Hagia Sophia. If Topkapi can still be skipped, Hagia Sophia is a must-see, even if churches aren’t your thing.
Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Mosque) – the main mosque of Istanbul. Located right opposite Hagia Sophia. Entry is free.
The muezzins of three mosques.

I highly recommend picking the right time and being on the square between the two now-mosques when the muezzins call to prayer (five times a day).

It’s incredible. The muezzins of Hagia Sophia and Sultanahmet don’t try to outsing each other—they sing in duet. One starts, the other picks up, and they go back and forth. I don’t know how it is now or if you’ll be lucky, but sometimes a third voice joins—the muezzin from Firuz Aga. When the three of them sing together, it’s goosebumps all over, pure delight.

Istanbul: Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Sultanahmet Tour – join for best experience.

Now’s the perfect time for a cultural snack break. Here’s what to try, and you can enjoy it right there:

Simit – a sesame bagel. It’s dry on its own, so ask for it with cream cheese or Nutella.
Roasted chestnuts/corn – well, yeah… consider it an attraction.
Pomegranate juice – freshly squeezed, and only in Turkey is it this cheap. Sometimes vendors cheat, especially when you don’t see them pressing the pomegranate, and mix it with orange juice.
Gülhane Park – next to Topkapi Palace. In spring, colorful tulips are planted. Beautiful for a walk or to relax with your simit.

Istanbul

Basilica Cistern – an underground water reservoir, considered one of the largest and best-preserved from the Constantinople era. It’s right next to Hagia Sophia. Definitely go, you probably haven’t seen anything like it anywhere else.
Theodosius Cistern – if you liked the Basilica, here’s another one nearby, on the way to Constantine’s Column. You’ve got to see everything properly in the Sultanahmet area.
Hippodrome, Sultanahmet (Ahmediye) – the main tourist square in Istanbul. It consists of two parts: the first between Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, and the second is the Hippodrome itself.

It’s called the Hippodrome because, for a long time, the Romans were here, and they needed purely Roman entertainment—chariot races.

What has survived:

Constantine’s Column – a Roman triumphal column, waiting for your attention since the 4th century. Constantine the Great, the one who founded a new capital of the Roman Empire on the site of Byzantium, later called Constantinople.
The Egyptian Obelisk, brought in the 4th century from Luxor, Egypt, and the Greek Serpent Column, also from the 4th century.

Sirkeci Station and the Whirling Dervishes

This station was where the famous Orient Express departed. Today, two lines run from Sirkeci – to Thessaloniki and Bucharest.

So, what do the dances have to do with it…

Dervishes were wandering poor men allowed to live in tekkes, monastic dwellings. In the Beyoğlu district, there’s the Galata Mevlevihanesi – a dervish museum. The dervishes have a ritual dance that allows them to enter a trance and connect with someone above (that’s my interpretation). It has become a popular show even outside Turkey.

The dance looks like this – for half an hour, the dervishes spin to music in one direction, gradually increasing the tempo, then switch to the other direction. It’s a mystery how their heads don’t get dizzy.

You can watch the whirling dervishes in two main places – at Galata Mevlevihanesi on Sundays at 5 and 7 pm (currently temporarily not held), or at Sirkeci Station almost every day. Choose whichever works for you, but I find Sirkeci more convenient. The acoustics in the hall there are amazing! Another unusual place to watch the dervish dance is in the hall of a restored 550-year-old Ottoman hammam.

Whirling Dervishes. Just 11 sec.

Grand Bazaar (Kapalı Çarşı) – a huge covered market where you can buy everything. Half a million visitors daily. Jeans “stand on the cardboard” (millennials will pass the joke) and “of course these are real Versace.” Trading happens not only inside but all around the area. There are also cafés with all sorts of tasty things, like intestine shawarma. I love it. You can wander around for an hour and a half to two hours. Apparently, Iran has similar markets, but somehow they don’t grab me the same way.

From all the variety, I bought pillow covers with Eastern motifs and a lamp with a shade covered in tiny colorful mosaics.

Nusr-Et Steakhouse Sandal Bedesteni

For true gourmets, there’s a restaurant by the world-famous chef Nusret (the one who sprinkles salt with his elbow) at the Grand Bazaar. Nusret has a chain of meat restaurants in Istanbul. The one near the Grand Bazaar is the most convenient. Prices are above average. Steaks start at 300 lira. Dinner for two will cost about €120. But it’s very tasty, plus the presentation is impressive. Worth going at least once. Don’t expect to see Nusret himself—he’s busy all over the world.

Egyptian Bazaar (Spice Market) – spices and sweets. It’s called that because spices from India used to be brought via Egypt. My favorite market; I always leave with a couple of kilograms of spices.

Hopefully everyone understands that bargaining is mandatory everywhere. You can’t break traditions or customs—Turks will get offended!

New Mosque (Yeni Camii) – or Valide Sultan Mosque. Built in the 16th century. Located near the Galata Bridge. By the way, the Egyptian Bazaar used to be considered part of the entire complex.

Let’s make another pit stop for a snack.

So… those who say the fish by the Galata Bridge is “yuck” are just killjoys. The new mayor of Istanbul is the same and even threatens to remove this part of the city’s tourist culture.

You absolutely have to try it! These are local traditions.

Balık Ekmek by the Galata Bridge

On the Eminönü waterfront, closer to evening, grilled fish starts being sold, mostly mackerel. Fishermen stand by the shore and grill right on their boats. Balık ekmek is grilled fish in a bread roll, cut in half. Be sure to get a small cup of pickles with it—cabbage, cucumber.

Under the bridge, in the first restaurants from the Eminönü pier, they also make balık ekmek, and it’s a bit less crowded. But the atmosphere isn’t the same.

Balık Dürüm

Now I’m jumping a bit to another neighborhood, but it’s worth it. Cross the Galata Bridge, go down to the left, and you’ll find yourself at the fish market in Karaköy. A little further along, they grill fish there too.

I like balık dürüm—it’s the same fish, only in lavash. Prepared like shawarma, but with less bread than balık ekmek. Divine with ayran.

A bit further from the fish market, there’s a place called Emin Usta Balıcısı. It’s known among our tourists as Super Mario. Colorful Turk, and supposedly the best fish shawarma. But this is definitely a tourist trap. First, the usual menu and alcohol tricks, second, he doesn’t grill anything himself anymore, just sits there sometimes, and most importantly—the balık dürüm is no different from what the guys next door grill, but the price is higher because of the hype.

Mussels stuffed with rice

On the Eminönü pier, there are lots of stalls selling mussels individually. Looking closer, you’ll see they’re stuffed with rice. Personally, I don’t like it. Let me know in the comments how you feel about it.

Ekmek

Durum

Galata Bridge

A drawbridge over the Golden Horn. At any time of day, the bridge is full of fishermen. Restaurants are located underneath.

Süleymaniye Mosque – the second most important mosque in Istanbul (after Sultanahmet). Built by the order of Suleiman the Magnificent. If you’ve watched Magnificent Century, this is exactly that era. In the mosque’s mausoleum rest Suleiman himself, his wife Roxelana, and their daughter Mihrimah.

In Süleymaniye, take a close look at the ceiling chandeliers. Yes, those are actually ostrich eggs, used to protect the mosque from insects.

Viewpoints near Süleymaniye

There’s, of course, a viewpoint at the mosque itself. But the most mind-blowing views of the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn are from Sefa-i Hürrem Cafe & Restaurant, which is on the way to Süleymaniye.

Prices aren’t the cheapest. But you can simply go out to the viewing platform. It’s truly worth it. The two best views of Istanbul are from Galata Tower and from Sefa-i Hürrem (Google Maps link).

Fener and Balat Districts

Old two- and three-story colorful houses, laundry hanging on lines between them, cool hipster cafés, the cheapest pomegranate juice, the most delicious pastries, quiet streets—a complete contrast to the glamorous Istanbul nearby. It’s a great way to mix up your impressions and spend three to four hours wandering the cobblestone streets of these old neighborhoods. These areas are safe for tourists.

Chora Church (Kariye Museum)

It’s best to start your walk through Fener and Balat with a visit to Chora Church. Its location is quite inconvenient, so many people skip it unnecessarily. A taxi is recommended. You can also take a bus, but then you’ll have to walk half an hour through dull residential areas.

“Chora” is Greek, and “Kariye” is Turkish, but they mean the same thing—suburb, a building outside the city center, beyond the city walls. Built as a church, later became a mosque, then a museum, and since August 2020 again a mosque.

It’s famous for its stunning 14th-century Byzantine mosaics.

Asitane Restaurant

Osmanlı Saray Mutfağı Asitane is located near the Chora Monastery. This restaurant serves dishes based on recipes found in Topkapi Palace. The only place in Istanbul where you can try what Suleiman the Magnificent himself enjoyed. Unusual combinations of ingredients, and everything is truly delicious. Prices are average—lunch for two around $50, cheaper than Nusret.

Residence of the Ecumenical Patriarch

The Constantinople Orthodox Church is the first (main) Orthodox church. It is also called the Great Church of Christ. The head of the church is the Ecumenical Patriarch. The administrative center is the Cathedral of Saint George. Judge the modest interior for yourself.

Bulgarian Iron Church of Saint Stephen

Unusual exterior finish, beautiful inside—why not stop by since you’re in the area? Not worth going out of your way for.

You can return by boat from the Fener pier.

Beyoğlu and Karaköy

There’s a large district—Beyoğlu—located on the northern shore of the Golden Horn. More than 230,000 Istanbul residents live in Beyoğlu, which encompasses 45 neighborhoods. Karaköy is one of my favorite districts in Istanbul.

Cihangir District (Google Maps) – the center of bohemian life. Expats, creative intellectuals, art gallery owners—typical residents of this area. Be sure to stroll the streets and stop by a couple of cafés to get a purely European city vibe.
Fish Market

It’s best to come in the first half of the day; the further from morning, the less fish remains. They don’t grill anything on the market itself, but cafés nearby definitely have fish.

Galata Tower

You should go up the tower closer to sunset.

İstiklal

The street starts at Taksim Square and goes toward the Golden Horn. Life here buzzes around the clock. During the day, you can go shopping. In the evening, street musicians appear. All the evening and nightlife action happens around İstiklal. Just turn onto any side street, and you’ll find nightclubs or bars with restaurants immediately.

Taksim Square – the main square of Istanbul. For locals, this is the main square, not Sultanahmet.
Red Tram

To get from Karaköy pier up to İstiklal, you first take the funicular, then ride the red tram. The tram is more interesting to photograph from the side. Walk along İstiklal itself.

Wet Burger

They say that after the nightclubs, Istanbul’s steamed wet burger—ıslak burger—goes down well. A regular bun with a patty, slowly steaming in the display case while waiting for the buyer. My taste buds weren’t thrilled, but you’ve got to try it to see for yourself.

Güllüoğlu Confectionery

The best Turkish baklava in a family-run pastry shop with a 200-year history. They’ve been making baklava since 1800, and the confectionery has operated in this location since 1970. Truly a huge selection. Divine, it just melts in your mouth. Istanbulites come here from all over the city. You can take it to go or enjoy it on the spot with tea. Open daily from 7 am to 11 pm.

Tea

I used to think Turks only drink coffee, and of course, Turkish coffee. Not true. Tea! And it has to be in a special glass—bardak (or as it’s also called, armudi). Real brewed tea, like you only get in Istanbul. I don’t know how they make it, but it tastes the same from street vendors for 1 lira or in a restaurant for 3. I even brought tea home, tried brewing it, even bought a bardak, but it’s just not the same.

Cafés and Graffiti in Karaköy

Karaköy is currently going through gentrification and now competes heavily with İstiklal for places to hang out in the evening. These aren’t nightclubs, but cozy cafés with cushions, wooden pallets, umbrellas, and lanterns between the buildings. Unbelievably cozy. From Karaköy pier, walk along the waterfront, watch the fishermen and cats, then head to Güllüoğlu Confectionery. After that, turn onto the small parallel streets—you’ll first find graffiti, then pick a spot to your taste.

Don’t worry, it’s safe in the evening.

Museum of Modern Art

Centre Pompidou, Erarta, Guggenheim — I love this kind of thing. Istanbul has several museums where you can explore modern art. I don’t recommend the one in Arnavutköy — it’s a long way, has few exhibits, and the only noteworthy feature is the rooftop café with a stunning view of the Bosphorus Bridge. I personally prefer this one — İstanbul Modern Sanat Müzesi.

Rahmi M. Koç Museum

If you have school-aged kids, this is simply the number one museum in Istanbul. And for men of all ages too. I’ve been there twice, and it’s pure delight. A very cool industrial museum: cars from different eras, motorcycles, airplanes, boats, locomotives, train cars, and tons of machinery.

Bosphorus Cruise

For tourists, there are Bosphorus cruises. The boat departs from Eminönü pier and sails to the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge, then turns back. Twenty-five minutes after departure, everyone falls asleep.

I’m not insisting, but I prefer riding the Bosphorus on a regular ferry, the same one Istanbul residents use to travel between districts.

Here’s a suggested route: take the ferry from Kabataş to Üsküdar, walk around there, and then return to Eminönü. You’ll probably even have different ferries. The Üsküdar–Eminönü route uses a bigger boat. Gorgeous views are guaranteed. First, you’ll see the Fatih district, then the Asian side.

If you prefer cruise with dinner and show, here is best choise for 3 hours.

Sapphire Tower

A modern skyscraper, the tallest in Istanbul. At 238 meters, it features a viewing platform and, of course, a restaurant. You can see modern Istanbul from there—beautiful during and after sunset. There’s also a 4D cinema where you can “fly” over Istanbul. In short, the usual attractions for a metropolis with tall buildings. Sapphire has 64 floors in total. The first six floors are a shopping mall and food court; the rest are residential and office spaces.

The viewing platform is open from 10 am to 10 pm (later makes little sense—it’s very dark). Tickets cost $7 and are sold on the first floor. Accessible by metro, 4.Levent station, green line (don’t confuse with just Levent).

Beşiktaş

Dolmabahçe Palace

In Istanbul, it’s customary to visit two palaces—Topkapi and Dolmabahçe. They are different, and I recommend both. Dolmabahçe has luxurious interiors. The courtyard also has a great viewpoint—don’t miss it; it’s often used for wedding photos.

Ortaköy Mosque

19th-century Ottoman Baroque. I recommend visiting after Dolmabahçe. Around Ortaköy, there’s a recreational area with beautiful views of the Bosphorus Bridge and plenty of restaurants.

Kumpir

To enjoy the Bosphorus and Ortaköy even more, start with a kumpir. This baked potato with fillings of your choice is traditionally eaten in the Ortaköy area. Yes, I’m talking about food again. Rows of vendors selling only kumpir appear as you approach Ortaköy.

Üsküdar

The Asian side of Istanbul. You should arrive by ferry. I highly recommend visiting both during the day and after sunset. From the Üsküdar waterfront, you get a stunning night panorama of Istanbul’s European side. With a telephoto lens and clear weather, you can capture amazing shots of the night skyline.

Üsküdar Waterfront

Exit the ferry, turn right, and walk along the waterfront toward the Maiden’s Tower. On a sunny day, it’s a magnificent stroll, I promise. Fishermen, cats, seagulls, benches. Oh, almost forgot—bring some buns to feed the seagulls!

Café on Salacak Waterfront

I really enjoy having tea with a view of the Maiden’s Tower at one of the cafés along the waterfront. The ones I like have cushions directly on the rocks instead of tables.

Mosques in Üsküdar

On the way back to the Üsküdar pier, you can visit two mosques:

Şemsi Ahmet Pasha Mosque. “Unexplained” fact: no birds ever land on this mosque. Apparently, the architect designed it so that the wind rose of the Bosphorus sits above the roof, preventing birds from perching.
Mihrimah Sultan Mosque — named in honor of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent’s daughter.

Maiden’s Tower

One of the postcard views of Istanbul. The history of the tower dates back to ancient times, though there’s no exact record of when the first structures appeared here. The earliest written records are from the 5th century BC. I won’t retell all of Wikipedia—just know that today it’s a museum and restaurant, accessible by boat. Boats depart every 15 minutes from Salacak pier to Kız Kulesi. It’s not far from Üsküdar pier, where you’ll arrive from the European side of Istanbul.

Entrance to the museum is 40 lira.

Personally, I prefer viewing the Maiden’s Tower from the shore.

Çamlıca Mosque

Appreciate the scale and grandeur of Turkey’s largest mosque, opened in 2019. The mosque is 72 meters tall with six minarets—two at 92 meters, the others at 107 meters. It holds 63,000 people. Open daily from 6:00 am to 9:00 pm. About a 30-minute bus ride from Üsküdar pier on bus 15C (Google Maps link).