Stepantsminda & Gergeti
Gamardjoba*!
Nestled in the heart of the Caucasus Mountains, Stepantsminda (Kazbegi) is a breathtaking escape that every traveller should experience. Known for its dramatic landscapes, iconic Gergeti Trinity Church, and majestic views of Mount Kazbek, this mountain town is a perfect blend of adventure and tranquility. In this guide, I’ll share my personal tips on how to get there, where to stay, where to eat, and the must‑see spots that make Stepantsminda unforgettable.
*Greetings! in Georgia
How to Get to Stepantsminda from Tbilisi
By Public Transport
In Tbilisi, near Didube metro station, there is the “Okri͡ba” bus station. Daily minibuses go from there to Stepantsminda. The trip takes 3–4 hours.
In summer, departures from Tbilisi run every hour from 8 AM to 7 PM. From Stepantsminda, they also run every hour from 7 AM to 6 PM. In other months, minibuses run less frequently.
In winter, the road can be closed! It’s not just for an hour or two — often it’s blocked for several days. Keep this in mind when planning your trip.
By Taxi
At the same bus station, there are also private drivers who will take you to Stepantsminda for 300–350 lari. Haggling is expected. A more convenient way is to book a driver in advance on GoTrip.ge.
By Rental Car
This is the best option! If possible, I strongly recommend this method.
Stepantsminda is the final destination along the Georgian Military Highway, one of the most beautiful roads in the world. The views of the mountains are breathtaking, and you’ll want to stop every five kilometers. If you travel by public transport, you’ll miss all of this along the way.
Don’t miss on my blog:
- What to See on the Georgian Military Highway
- Car Rental in Georgia — best options + everything about driving and traffic rules. In Georgia, I suggest renting a car through LocalRent.
The road alone is worth coming to Stepantsminda (Kazbegi) for.
A Few Fun Facts About Stepantsminda
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Until 2007, Stepantsminda was called Kazbegi. Among locals and on some road signs, this name is still used.
The name Stepantsminda existed until 1774. It is connected to a monk named Stepan, who lived in these mountains. Once, Stepan saved the local people by warning them about an avalanche. They moved to a safer place and named it Stepantsminda (literally in Georgian, Stepan Tsmin͡da – Saint Stepan).
In 1774, the local ruler became Kazibeg Chopikashvili. The village was renamed Kazbeg in 1921 after him.
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In 1848, Alexander Kazbegi, a famous Georgian writer, was born in Stepantsminda. Stalin was very fond of Kazbegi’s books. According to one theory, his nickname “Koba” came from Kazbegi’s story The Patricide, where a robber had this name.
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Stepantsminda is the first town you reach when entering Georgia from Russia by car. It is only 11 km from the border, 45 km from Vladikavkaz, and 165 km north of Tbilisi.
Technically, it’s not even a city but an urban-type settlement with about 1,200 residents.
Most visitors spend only a couple of hours in Stepantsminda. That’s a real shame — I recommend spending a full day here and definitely staying overnight. If your prefer only best place to stay, in Kazbegi it’s Rooms Hotel. I’m falling in love in this hotel. One of the best in all of my trips.
And now I’ll try to convince you why you need to spend a full day in Stepantsminda.
Things to Do in Stepantsminda
Visit the Holy Trinity Church
The Gergeti Trinity Church (in the small village of Gergeti) is the most popular attraction in Stepantsminda and one of the postcard views of Georgia.
How to Get to Gergeti Church
The church is located on a mountain at 2,000 meters above sea level. You can get there on foot — but keep in mind the trail is tough. Some trekking enthusiasts do it, but I’m not one of them, so I can’t give personal tips. The path up is winding, uneven, with stones and cobbles. According to reviews, it takes about 2 hours.
Most people still go by car. In 2018, a new road was built to the monastery, so now any car can reach it.
On one hand, it’s a bit of a shame, because the old road itself used to be a real adventure.
Here’s a photo of a good section of the old road. Imagine what it was like on the bad parts.
The most beautiful part is the unreal views from the mountain over the surroundings — Stepantsminda down below and Mount Kazbek.
Hiking to Gveleti Waterfall
You can’t drive all the way to the waterfall. Local drivers offer to take you to the turnoff for the falls, wait there, and then drive you back to Stepantsminda square — a kind of mini-tour. If you have a full day, I recommend doing the entire hike on your own; it’s not difficult.
Gveleti Waterfall is marked on Google Maps. The navigator will take you to the spot (two abandoned sheds) where you leave your car and continue on foot.
Wear comfortable shoes and be sure to bring water with you. The path steadily goes uphill with a gentle incline. It takes about 30 minutes to reach the signpost.
From there, it’s another 35 minutes to the waterfall. It’s better to head straight to the Big Waterfall. The path here is even rougher, and you’ll need to climb over rocks. Some people collect and drink water at the waterfall — that’s up to you; I’m not willing to take that risk anymore.
The way back is faster and easier. All in all, including stops, the round trip from the parking lot to the waterfall and back takes about 2–2.5 hours.
Drive Through the Sno Valley
About 9 km from Stepantsminda toward Tbilisi, there’s a turnoff onto the road that leads to Sno Valley — the villages of Sno and Juta. The road to Sno is excellent, but you probably won’t reach Juta in a regular car. You can arrange a tour to these places with local drivers. If you’re in your own or a rental car and don’t plan to stay in Juta, drive as far as the road is good and enjoy the scenery, then simply turn around and head back.
From Juta, an easy (gentle incline) hiking trail begins to the Chaukhi Pass. It’s about 12 km one way. If you enjoy walking in nature, I recommend staying in Juta for a few days.
There are places to stay in Juta — in summer, campsites are open, there’s a hotel, and of course guesthouses.
