Svaneti: Discover Georgia’s Mountain Paradise
Svaneti is one of the most unique and beautiful mountain regions of Georgia. For a long time, Svaneti was hard to reach for tourists. Even today, many first-time visitors to the country stay in Tbilisi, make a stop in the neighboring region of Kakheti, and rush to Adjara, to the sea in Batumi. I recommend not spending all your days on the beach and taking a couple of days in the mountains instead. I went to Georgia for the second time after seeing Ushguli.
In Svaneti, you’ll find absolutely mind-blowing views, the most delicious food (I swear, you won’t find kubdari like this anywhere else in Georgia), and a very distinctive people – the Svans.
If you love hiking in mountainous terrain, peace, and natural beauty, plan to spend 3–4 days in Svaneti.
As a travel blogger, I share my ultimate guide to Svaneti — Georgia’s mountain paradise. Learn how to get there, where to stay, what to see, the best hikes, explore glaciers, medieval towers, and discover Svan culture.
How to Get to Svaneti
The capital of the region is the small town of Mestia. Getting to Svaneti from Tbilisi or Batumi takes time, but it’s straightforward. By the way, Mestia even has an airport – in summer, the airline Vanilla Sky flies here from Tbilisi. Small planes, tickets are never available. I don’t recommend it.
But the airport building in Mestia is very futuristic.
Getting to Svaneti isn’t exactly a quick hop. You can take public transport — there are minibuses (marshrutka) from Tbilisi, Kutaisi or Batumi, and even a summer flight from Natakhtari Airport near Tbilisi. But be prepared for long hours on the road, early departures, and drivers who definitely don’t speak English. It’s all possible, just not very convenient.
Another downside: you’ll miss a lot along the way. The road to Svaneti passes some incredible scenery — mountain valleys, viewpoints, and places like the Enguri Dam — but marshrutkas don’t stop anywhere. They just speed through.
If you prefer to travel with a bit more comfort (and sanity), you really have two good options:
1. Rent a car.
This is the best choice if you like flexibility and don’t mind driving in the mountains. You can pick up the car anywhere in Georgia, plan your own route, and stop wherever you want.
- Car Rental in Georgia – all you need to know.
- LocalRent – recommend renting car here.
2. Book a trip with Gotrip.
I used gotrip.ge for my Batumi – Kutaisi ride and absolutely loved it. It’s basically a private transfer that works like a customizable road trip. You choose your start and end points, add stops along the way — waterfalls, viewpoints, villages — and the site instantly shows the total price. No hidden costs, no “DM us for details.”
Your driver waits for you at every stop, whether it’s for photos, food, or coffee. You pay the exact amount shown, in cash, at the end. Think of it as a car rental with a driver, but without the tourist-hustle vibe.
If you just want to get from A to B, Gotrip is usually cheaper than taxis. If you want to turn the journey itself into an adventure — even better. Highly recommend.
The road to Mestia is in good condition, and you can drive it with any regular car. The only stretch that might be a bit uncomfortable is the concrete section that starts about 60 km before Mestia. Up to that point, it’s all asphalt. But the concrete part is fine too – you just can’t go too fast, and there’s no need to, with such stunning views outside the window.
After Zugdidi, follow the signs to Jvari, and about 8 km after Jvari, take the left turn – be sure to stop by the Enguri Dam(Google maps link).
We spent about an hour and a half at the dam, including a snack with brynza cheese, bread, and tomatoes we’d bought earlier in Zugdidi. You can walk freely around the dam area along the entire length of the reservoir.
Top Attractions in Svaneti
Svaneti
For a long time, the region was cut off from the rest of the country. In winter, the mountain passes were buried under snow; in summer, the roads were washed out. People were leaving, and the area was falling into decline. Many villages have abandoned houses. Things began to change under Saakashvili — the road to Zugdidi was built, and other sections started to be repaired. Mestia was completely renovated and restored. A ski resort, Hatsvali, appeared.
When you travel around Georgia and talk to locals, you realize that the country’s major transformations and progress happened during the presidency of Mikheil Saakashvili. And Svaneti is yet another example of a region that started developing thanks to the push it got in those years.
There are no particularly famous churches or cathedrals in Svaneti. The main attraction here is nature — and, of course, the Svan towers.
The Svans
There, in the highest and most beautiful mountains of Georgia, where only proud eagles soar, lives an equally proud and ancient people — the Svans. For centuries, the Svans lived a communal way of life. They could go for months without descending from the mountains or having any contact with the rest of Georgia.
The Svans never waged wars — they only defended themselves and often feuded among one another, as is typical of peoples who have lived in isolation for most of their history. Their conflicts were known for their harshness since ancient times.
Blood feuds in Upper Svaneti, known as licvri, drained the region even more than constant wars with external enemies. The fighting wasn’t just between villages but even between families. An insulting word or kicking someone’s dog could be enough to earn a bullet to the forehead. And then, the men would retreat into their towers. They brought women and children inside, along with smoked meat, ammunition, and wooden flasks filled with water. The towers were connected to houses, which themselves were built like fortresses. Instead of windows, Svan houses have narrow loopholes, and the walls are made of stone — you can’t set them on fire. I was told that sometimes men would hide in the towers for years… During that time, the land lay untilled, livestock perished, and people died.
Even in modern times, the police were long afraid to intervene in Svan disputes.
Giorgi, the guesthouse owner, told us that even now, the Svans remain quite closed off from the rest of the country. You can’t just come here and buy a house in Svaneti because you like it and want to live here. First, you need to get the approval of the local community.
Mestia
Mestia is the administrative center of the region.
The Monument to Queen Tamar. Modern art is… well, modern art.
I recommend visiting a few museums:
- History and Ethnography Museum – entrance 7 lari, open 11:00–16:00, closed on Mondays.
- House-Museum of the Mountaineer Mikheil Khergiani – small but interesting, entrance 5 lari, closed on Mondays. About a 20-minute walk from the center of Mestia.
Part of the town is built on a hill, so for those staying higher up rather than in the center, no need to spend money on a gym.
It’s actually hard to call Mestia a city — it’s more like a small town designed for transit tourists who come here just to spend the night. There’s nothing to do in Mestia itself; all the interesting things are outside. The town does have a large cluster of Svan towers. All the towers are on private property — they are family towers. So don’t expect to be able to climb into every single one.
Hatsvali
A ski resort in Svaneti. In winter, people come here to ski, and in summer, the lift operates for those who want to go up and enjoy the view of Mestia from above on a clear day.
The cable car has two levels. The lower one is near the History and Ethnography Museum, so you can combine the visit. But sometimes in summer, the lifts at this level may be under maintenance, in which case you can go up from the upper station, located 8 km away. If you don’t have a car and aren’t very athletic, you can take a taxi from the center of Mestia. Drivers usually ask about 50 lari for a round trip and waiting time. The lift itself costs 10 lari.
Svan Towers
A hallmark not only of Svaneti but of all Georgia. Only a few have survived, around 135 in total. The youngest tower is 700 years old. In the past, each family in a community had its own watchtower, which served as a storage space, sometimes a dwelling, and a stronghold. The base of the tower, the first level, is made of stone without any defined rooms. Above that is a small opening that can be reached with a ladder, where people could also hide by pulling the ladder inside. Slightly higher were living and utility spaces. At the very top is a lookout platform, from which, in case of an attack, people defended themselves and fired in every possible way.
Ushguli
The most incredible views are in Ushguli. A trip to Ushguli takes a whole day — it’s 2–3 hours by car one way. You can stay overnight in Ushguli and the next day take a short hike or a horseback ride to the Shkhara Glacier.
- Ushguli: Ultimate Guide – everything you need to know
Chalaadi Glacier
Chalaadi Glacier is a very beautiful spot not far from Mestia. Getting there isn’t difficult — it’s an easy 3–4 hour hike that doesn’t require much effort, preparation, or special gear. I recommend wearing sneakers rather than flip-flops; everything else depends on the weather.
- Chalaadi Glacier Hike – easy trip in my review
Cross Viewpoint and Koruldi Lakes
Cross Viewpoint (43.059671, 42.722889) – located 2 km from the History and Ethnography Museum. You’ll be walking uphill the entire way (it’s a trail, not rock climbing).
Koruldi Lakes (43.087455, 42.704287) – a group of lakes not far from Mestia. The most beautiful part is the scenery along the way. The full route is 7 km, but since it’s all uphill, it takes 4–5 hours one way! The path is consistently uphill, so children and people with low fitness should think carefully if it’s worth it. Good shoes are essential, and in summer, sun protection, water, and food. The best time for the hike is June–October. This is a full-day route, so start early. Unlike the hike to Chalaadi Glacier, this is not the easiest trek.
Locals offer a jeep tour to the Cross Viewpoint and then to the lakes. You can ask about it at your guesthouse or in the center of Mestia. It costs around 170 lari per vehicle. Try to find fellow travelers at the guesthouse to split the cost.
Alternatively, you can go to the lakes on horseback. See here about this option. Just keep in mind that after a ride like this, you probably won’t be able to walk properly for a full day.
When and How Many Days to Go
In winter (December–March), Svaneti attracts skiers. Georgia has several popular ski resorts: Gudauri, Bakuriani, and Hatsvali near Mestia is one of them. Every year, more and more skiers come to Hatsvali, so make sure to book accommodation in advance, especially during holidays.
April–May isn’t the best time for hikes — the snow is still melting, and it’s cold.
The high season is mid-June to early October. In my opinion, the best time for hiking is September. In summer, everything is crowded, so definitely book ahead.
You should plan at least 2 full days in Svaneti. Three days is even better, but it all depends on how much you enjoy walking in the mountains. I could, of course, list all the semi-abandoned villages, ruined towers, and remnants of old communities that various guides mention and appear in reviews, but trust me — for your first trip to Svaneti, you don’t need that. Here’s a must-see list for a first visit:
Day 1: Chalaadi Glacier, History and Ethnography Museum, House-Museum of the mountaineer Mikheil Khergiani, and the Hatsvali cable car.
Day 2: Trip to Ushguli — a full day. You absolutely must go. Otherwise, visiting Svaneti doesn’t make much sense at all.
Day 3: Koruldi Lakes — a full day, for trekking enthusiasts. Start in the morning to return to Mestia in daylight.
Where to Eat in Mestia
Cafe Lanchvali – the food here is simply amazing. I don’t know where you’ll be staying in Mestia, but you absolutely have to come here for lunch or dinner. Yes, the uphill walk is tough, but it’s worth it. You won’t find kubdari like this anywhere else. The chacha at Lanchvali is the best I’ve had in Georgia. Taste it carefully — the effects come fast and unexpectedly. We even bought a liter to take home.
Laila – the food is decent, around a 4/5, but in the evenings it’s always very busy because of live music and even dancing. The wait for a free table can be long. They’re open until 4 a.m., and during the season, there are tables outside.
What to Bring from Svaneti
Of course, Svan salt! Svan salt is a blend of salt mixed with dozens of different spices. Each family keeps their recipe a secret. It’s sold all over Mestia in small packets. But just like with wine, churchkhela, and chacha, some dishonest people try to trick tourists with fake Svan salt — sometimes mixing ordinary salt with a few spices. It’s better to ask at your hotel or guesthouse where to buy it for personal use rather than as a souvenir. Usually, they have an “aunt” who makes and sells it unofficially.
Normal people buy 2–3 packets of 50 grams each, but we got 2 kg (facepalm). We used it at home for over a year. We didn’t use any other spices — we added Svan salt to everything except tea and coffee. Neighbors would sniff it under the door and ask to try some.
Where to Stay in Svaneti
The center of the region is Mestia. It’s convenient from here to make day trips to explore the beauty of Svaneti — hikes and drives. Most accommodation options in Mestia are guesthouses and hostels. There are far fewer hotels. Pay attention when booking and read the room description carefully — many have shared bathrooms. For me, having a private toilet is essential.
Hotel Svaneti – a very decent hotel right in the center of Mestia. Bet the first thing you’ll do is take a photo of the view from the window! All the Svan towers are right before your eyes.
Hotel Mestia – everything is new, clean, and neat. Buy some chacha, wine, and snacks, and spend a warm evening on the veranda.
