Discover Pico Island Azores
Olá! Bom dia!
So, Pico – the third island on our trip through the Azores. How to get to Pico? In my case – a half-hour ferry ride from São Jorge. But like on any Azorean island, Pico has its own airport, so you can also fly if you prefer.
Better start here:
- Azores: FAQ – a detailed guide on how to get around between the islands, where and which planes fly, where to catch the ferries, Azorean cuisine, which islands to visit, and all the useful details.
- Car rental in the Azores – absolutely essential, you can’t do without it.
On every island I rented a car, always from the same company – Ilha Verde (you can find them on DiscoverCars). They have offices in all airports and ports. Well, almost all… I already explained why, if you’re planning to visit several Azorean islands, it’s best to stick with the same rental company.
But… Pico and São Jorge each have two ports. Our ferry didn’t arrive in the administrative center, Madalena, but in São Roque – where, as you might have guessed, there are no offices at all. So I had to go to the airport, which is nearby, to pick up the car. When I booked it, the plan was very simple – I’d just take a bus to the rental office, or worst case, grab a taxi. Once on the ground, it turned out there were no buses, taxis only by request. And of course, no Uber, no Bolt. In fact, no taxi agencies at all – just a secret list of taxi drivers. I ended up walking into the nearest restaurant and asking them to call a taxi.
So keep that in mind.
Where to stay
In Madalena! It’s the island’s capital.
I liked the hotel we stayed at – Villa Da Madalena. Private parking, simple breakfast, a small but comfortable room, and a balcony. Perfect for an overnight stay without any frills. There’s a supermarket right next to the hotel, and restaurants and the waterfront are within walking distance.
Where to eat and drink
Bar Clube Naval de São Roque do Pico – remember I said we went into the nearest restaurant to call a taxi? This is the place. And for good reason. A fantastic buffet lunch from 12 to 15. For €13, you eat as much as you want – enough to skip dinner. The selection of dishes is excellent. Drinks and coffee are included. Dinner is à la carte.
Cella Bar – after that buffet, we weren’t hungry for dinner, but you can’t just sulk in your room in the evening. This place is not just a bar – they serve food too. And the view of the ocean is beautiful.
Restaurante Picoceano – in the Azores, we deliberately avoided playing the game of “book a table in the morning or you’ll be hungry at night” and preferred to wander around our chosen Google spots looking for a place. On the second day, we honored this lovely restaurant with our visit for dinner. Picoceano catches its own fish and also has three stalls at the fish market. So the seafood is incredibly fresh. The tuna I ordered had been swimming in the ocean that morning. Cooked perfectly – juicy, not dry. The pasta gets a solid B, the octopus is amazing, and the wine is chilled. Azores: FAQ – it also covers what local dishes to try. The restaurant offers a buffet even at dinner.
O Galeao – located on the other side of the island.“- Let’s make a pit stop, grab a coffee.”
“- Great idea.” “- Oh, they have seafood soup on the menu, should we try it?” “- Excellent idea.”
Who knew they’d bring a huge pot with such a seafood mix that it lasted until breakfast? Not worth going out of your way, but if you happen to be nearby, drop in. The atmosphere is very simple – mostly local workers smoking while having coffee, no tourists.
Pico: where it is
The island of Pico was discovered in 1427 by Portuguese sailors. The island’s name comes from Mount Pico, which dominates the entire territory and is the highest point not only on the island but in all of Portugal (2,351 meters).
About 14,000 people live on the island, which is quite a small number compared to other islands in the archipelago, like São Miguel, where more than 130,000 people live.
What to see on Pico
I don’t write about cities in the Azores because the most interesting part is the nature. In the island’s capital, Madalena, a stroll in the evening before and after dinner is enough. You can enjoy the lights of Faial, visible from the shore.
Lakes
On the first day, from São Roque port, we drove along the edge of the lakes – small bodies of water set against fantastic (there’s no other kind in the Azores) landscapes: Lagoa do Capitão, Lagoa do Caiado, Lagoa do Cabeço dos Grotões.
Tourada
We found this place completely by chance; it’s not marked on maps. I could be wrong, but it’s roughly in this area. There’s a turn onto a gravel road and a small wooden sign saying “Touro.”
An old arena for tourada – Portuguese bullfighting. Though here it’s unclear whether it’s abandoned or if some underground tournaments still take place.
Yes, such spectacles are still available in Portugal. Tourada is held in Lisbon and many cities across the country. I went to one of these “shows” and have no plans to go again.
Azorean cows
They’re truly part of the cultural landscape. Especially against the backdrop of mountains and craters. Just look at how beautiful and plump they are. Year-round grazing in the fields of perfect valleys. Notice the special water troughs – there are plenty across the island where the cows graze.
My evening steak is out for a walk.
Underground caves
Gruta das Torres – you can walk 500 meters inside a lava tube. A completely natural cave, not equipped at all. It’s not as grand as the ones on Terceira. Unfortunately, I didn’t get to visit Gruta das Torres. When we arrived at the entrance (everything official there, tickets and all), it was closed. While writing this post and checking the latest info for you, I found out there’s some crack in the ceiling, so it’s closed for now.
Furna do Frei Matias – a kind of secret cave. There really are no signs. On Google Maps, a user marked a reference point – the entrance is near a cow skeleton. Mmmmm, just for that alone it’s worth going. We park here and head to the hills where the cows graze. We bypass the gate and fence – it’s just for show. Of course, there’s no skeleton there anymore, it’s already been taken. In the hill, you’ll find an overgrown cave entrance. You can exit from the other end. Overall, a thumbs up – I liked it.
Wine on Pico
The vineyards on Pico are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s incredible – grapes are grown on black basalt rocks, protected from wind and salt air by low stone walls. High humidity from the ocean on all sides and moderate year-round temperatures contribute to slow ripening, giving the wines a unique acidity and aroma.
Azorean wines are not produced in large volumes; a bottle in a store usually costs around €20.
There are several wineries on Pico, all offering tours with tastings.
For example, Cooperativa Vitivinícola da Ilha do Pico – one of the oldest and largest wine producers on Pico, founded in 1949. They produce a range of wines from local varieties exported worldwide. The tour explains the production process and includes tasting three different wines – don’t overdo it, just three small glasses, not filled to the top. Total cost €15. If you’re curious about the process, it’s worth visiting; if not, it’s better to buy a full bottle at a store, pair it with cheese, and taste at leisure. Even better, for the same money, you could buy five bottles of Vinho Verde and… enjoy.
In the 19th century, fortified wines from the Azores, including Pico, were very popular in Europe. Russia, as a major consumer of fortified wines, actively imported wines from various regions, including Portugal and its overseas territories.
Historical fact: wines from the Czar winery were supplied to the imperial court in Saint Petersburg (Russia) from 1820.
And here’s what it looks like – vineyards, black rocks, and the red mill – right here.
From the vineyards, let’s walk down to the shore.
Looking at these rocks, I can’t help but think that Daenerys of House Targaryen, the First of Her Name, the Unburnt, Queen of Meereen, Queen of the Andals, the Rhoynar, and the First Men, Khaleesi of the Great Grass Sea, Breaker of Chains, and Mother of Dragons, recently unleashed a dragonfire here on someone.
Driving along the ER1 road along Pico’s southern coast, you’re immersed in a sequence of picturesque landscapes and cozy Azorean villages, with natural pools formed by solidified lava. The views of the rocky lava shores are especially striking. The black basalt rocks sharply contrast with the bright blue ocean, creating dramatic landscapes you could admire endlessly.
At this point, I’m running out of adjectives without sounding like an overexcited fool marveling at every single rock. From here on, I’ll write “typical Azorean view,” which will mean – a masterpiece, stunning, mesmerizing, fiery, awesome.
Farol de São Mateus. Lighthouses are my weakness. If I see one within reach, I never pass it by.
Caldeira
Part of the road to Caldeira isn’t very good. No asphalt, but no potholes either. Nothing to worry about. There’s no cell signal, so you need to have offline maps or be ready to follow the signs a bit.
But it’s worth going to see the cows grazing in the caldera. No tourists, complete silence, and all around – a “typical Azorean view.”
Red mills
One of Pico’s signature sights – windmills. They’re props, not functional. Long ago, before the island had electricity, the mills were actually used in agriculture. Now they exist only for photos. In some villages on Pico, doors and window frames are also painted red, creating a striking contrast against the black stone fences.
Red and black make a beautiful combination. I remembered a naughty joke – I won’t tell it, but if you’re curious, Google: two gynecologists, a Black woman, a black Bentley with a red leather interior.
Climbing Mount Pico
Hahaha, did you really think I was going to climb it? The most I’m capable of is driving up to the parking lot and, if there’s not too much cloud cover, taking in the view of Pico from above. The whole road up to the viewpoint is filled with “typical Azorean views.” The other island you can see is Faial – and that’s where we’ll head tomorrow.
